Italian luxury fashion brand Prada has admitted that its Spring/Summer 2026 menswear line includes footwear inspired by the classic Indian Kolhapuri chappals. The statement comes amid growing criticism in India over the brand’s use of the traditional design without acknowledging its roots.

The response from the fashion giant came following backlash on social media and concerns raised by Indian officials and artisans, who accused the brand of cultural appropriation and failing to credit the legacy and craftsmanship behind the traditional design.

From the cobbled streets of Kolhapur to the bustling bazaars where the dupatta is a staple, Indian traditional fashion boasts a rich tapestry of craftsmanship, history, and cultural significance. However, this invaluable heritage is increasingly facing a concerning trend: the appropriation and rebranding by Western high-fashion brands, often with a glaring absence of acknowledgement or credit to its origins.

Rebranding of India's 800-year-old craft

The latest in a series of such incidents has seen Italian luxury brand Prada drawing sharp criticism for its Spring/Summer 2026 menswear collection, which featured "leather one-toe sandals" that bear an uncanny resemblance to the iconic Kolhapuri chappals. These 800-year-old, handcrafted leather sandals from Maharashtra, renowned for their durability and distinctive toe-loop design, were presented on the Milan runway with no mention of their Indian roots.

This has sparked widespread outrage, with many accusing the brand of cultural appropriation and erasure, especially given that Kolhapuri chappals were granted a Geographical Indication (GI) tag by the Indian government in 2019.

Dupatta or Scandinavian Scarf?

This is not an isolated incident. The "Scandinavian scarf" trend, which gained traction on social media platforms such as TikTok, is another notable example. What was presented as a new, minimalist European fashion accessory was, to millions across South Asia, simply the dupatta – a traditional, versatile scarf steeped in cultural and religious significance, worn by generations of Indian women. The rebranding stripped the garment of its rich context and heritage, reducing it to a mere aesthetic without any acknowledgment of its origins.

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For decades, Indian artisans and traditional crafts have been a wellspring of inspiration for global fashion houses. From intricate embroidery techniques like Zardozi and Chikankari to vibrant block prints and distinct silhouettes like shararas and lehengas, elements of Indian design have frequently found their way onto international runways.

While inspiration is a natural part of the creative process, the line between appreciation and appropriation becomes blurred when brands profit handsomely from these designs without proper attribution, collaboration, or fair compensation to the communities that have preserved and perfected these crafts over centuries.

The impact of this cultural appropriation

Erasure of Cultural Heritage: By rebranding and recontextualizing traditional items, Western brands effectively erase their historical and cultural significance, presenting them as novel Western inventions. This denies recognition to the original creators and the long lineage of craftsmanship.
Economic Disadvantage for Artisans: When luxury brands sell "Kolhapuri-lookalikes" for exorbitant prices (reportedly over Rs. 1.7 lakh for Prada's version, compared to a few hundred rupees for authentic ones), it undermines the livelihoods of traditional artisans. These artisans, often from marginalized communities, struggle to compete with such high-end global marketing, missing out on the economic value their heritage creates.
Perpetuation of Colonial Mentality: Critics argue that this pattern reflects a lingering colonial mindset, where non-Western crafts only gain legitimacy and market value when reinterpreted and sold by Western hands. It implies that "inspiration" is only valid when extracted and commodified by dominant cultures.
Intellectual Property Challenges: Protecting traditional knowledge and designs under existing intellectual property laws can be challenging. Many traditional arts are collective creations, making them difficult to fit into frameworks designed for individual authorship or specific industrial inventions.

There is a growing demand from cultural commentators, fashion historians, and the Indian diaspora for greater respect, recognition, and collaboration. The conversation is shifting from mere "inspiration" to ethical engagement, demanding that high fashion acknowledge the origins, invest in the communities, and share the profits with the custodians of these invaluable cultural assets.

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